Puntarelle season has started in Rome, and if you can find them north of the Alps, buy them immediately.
Pull the shoots off the head, slice each one lengthwise into thin strips and drop them in iced water for an hour until they curl up like ribbons.
For the dressing, pound 4 anchovy fillets and a small garlic clove into a paste, then whisk in 1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar and 4 tablespoons of good olive oil. Drain the puntarelle, dry them well and toss with the dressing just before serving.