Category: Field Notes

Varieties, seasons and where to find them.

  • A Field Guide to the Chicory Family

    Every winter someone asks me what the difference is between endive, chicory, witlof and radicchio. The honest answer: they are all Cichorium intybus (plus its cousin Cichorium endivia), and the names change depending on which side of the Channel you are standing.

    Belgian endive (witloof, chicon)

    The pale, torpedo-shaped heads grown in the dark from forced roots. Crisp, juicy, gently bitter. Raw in salads, braised in butter, or wrapped in ham and baked under cheese.

    Radicchio

    The Italian red chicories. Chioggia is round like a small cabbage, Treviso precoce is long and tight, Treviso tardivo looks like a firework and is the best of them all. Grill it, roast it, stir it into risotto.

    Puntarelle

    Catalogna chicory shoots, a Roman winter speciality. You slice the hollow shoots into thin strips and soak them in iced water until they curl.

    Escarole and frisée

    Technically endivia, but they behave the same in the kitchen. Escarole is lovely wilted into beans; frisée wants bacon and a poached egg.

    Chicory root

    The large-rooted varieties are dried, roasted and ground into the famous coffee substitute. More on that in the Root & Coffee section.

    Rule of thumb: the paler the leaf, the milder the taste. Bitterness is a feature, not a flaw — balance it with fat, salt, acid or sweetness and it sings.