Chicons au Gratin (Endive, Ham and Cheese Bake)

The dish of my childhood. My grandmother made it every Sunday from November to March, and the kitchen windows always fogged up.

Ingredients (serves 4)

• 8 Belgian endives
• 8 thin slices of cooked ham
• 40 g butter, 40 g flour, 500 ml milk
• 150 g grated Gruyère (or young Gouda)
• Nutmeg, salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar

Method

1. Cut a small cone out of the base of each endive — that is where most of the bitterness hides.
2. Braise the endives in a covered pan with a knob of butter, the sugar and a splash of water for 20 minutes. Drain them well and squeeze gently; watery endives ruin the sauce.
3. Make a béchamel, season with nutmeg and stir in two thirds of the cheese.
4. Wrap each endive in ham, lay them in a buttered dish, pour over the sauce and scatter the remaining cheese.
5. Bake at 200 °C for 25 minutes until bubbling and brown.

Serve with mashed potatoes. Nothing else is required, though a cold Belgian beer does not hurt.